Aniak Trip Report 2024

Alaska musters images of immense landscapes, untamed wilderness and primordial fishing experiences. The land of the midnight sun has more waterways than you can count, but having lived in the 49th state we’ve zeroed in on one of the more unique and less crowded venues that we think showcases some of the best Alaska has to offer. Enter the Aniak River.

 I first heard of the Aniak river over lunch with some professors at University of Alaska where my wife and I were both employed at the time. With distant looks a few of them ticked off some of the great river tips in Alaska, but when the Aniak came up the story telling became much more lavish and exciting.

 On the Aniak they said, rainbow trout ravenously ate mouse flies, five strong runs of salmon ascended thru the season, dollies and grayling were ever present, the lower sloughs were packed with northern pike, and rare “Sheefish” migrated to the lower river to feast on out migrating smolt. It’s also outside the busy Bristol bay area, has no fly out pressure, hardly anyone floats it and there is only one lodge.

 When we came back to the lower 48 to resume our guide service after Bridget’s research concluded, I almost immediately contacted Aniak River Lodge to learn more.

 After a long talk with Ludi, the managing partner and former guide at Aniak River Lodge, we settled on early July for the best period to experience it all. We did not want to go all the way to Alaska to peg eggs and run them through salmon redds. We were looking for big eats on mice, salmon along the way, Sheefish, and an unfiltered, untamed Alaskan fishing trip.

 That was back in 2019. Fast forward a few trips, here’s our photo report from 2024’s adventure to the Aniak with Bill, Jim, Dwight, Steve, Tom, Whit, Bill, Carol and Nana.

Yucatán Trip Journal

In the morning I had stale coffee by the hotel pool in the company of mocking birds and a grackle. I flew into Dallas the night before and can’t wait for another fly fishing adventure to the Yucatan. At the airport I meet up with Tuck, Bailey and Ryan after their incoming flights from Reno and Portland. This is Tuck’s third trip with me to Mexico, but Ryan and Bailey’s first flats fishing experience. We’re headed to Xcalak, Mexico, all the way to Belize practically, to fish for bonefish, permit, tarpon, jacks and barracuda. We chat excitedly on the plane, on a new route to Tulum; more direct, bypassing Cancun. These guys slept in their own bed this morning and we’ll all arrive tonight at our destination in one simple day of travel.  We added an extra couple days of fishing because of the new simple route.

We landed in the jungle, a straight grey line in the expanse of shifting green, with a turquoise Caribbean out the plane window. Warm tropical air greeted us at the new, gleaming airport. We waited for our bags at the carousel then bought a couple waters before Manny, my trusted driver ushered us to his AC’d van and the jungle drive south. We stop in the little town of Felipe Carrio Puerto to stock up on some extra things – a few snacks, a case of water for the rooms (its hot in May) and a few more beers. It was Cinco de Mayo and we enjoyed the parade in town for a few more minutes before continuing south.

Bouncing through the little village of Xcalak the smell of sargasso greeted our noses and Francisco, our accommodations manager warmly greeted us in front of the restaurant palapa like old friends.

Settling in before dinner we noticed the cabanas had been updated with new grout, linens, brighter lights, and paint. A welcome update, the Caribbean is a harsh neighbor for a building. The frond roofs and generous slatted windows collect the sea breeze and keep the rooms comfortable.

That night down at the beach front restaurant we enjoyed fresh caught parrgo (snapper), rice, and farm grown sautéed vegetables washed down with Margaritas before we were off to bed for our first day of fishing.

A Yucatan jay popped her head out the hole in the palm tree immediately outside my window and chattered at day break. A grackle shortly answered. The breeze, the one I had fine tuned through the slats a few times last night was the same temperature as the air, warm. But even at 6:30am, it was relentless. I had hoped we might have a break from the 20-30mph steady winds but alas it was not to be today.

We all stumbled into the restaurant around 7 to grab a strong coffee and get our breakfast order in. Huevos rancheros for me, I think the others got omelets. The guides would pick us up at 8 and we still haven’t strung our rods, tied on flies or packed our boat bags.

It was good to see Reuben again a seasoned guide in Xcalak. He’s a guide’s guide. He brought along Felipe for our second boat, who has eyes like an osprey. You’ve got to have good eyes in this game. Tuck and I jumped in with Reuben, while Ryan and Bailey were off with Filipe. We’d meet up for lunch at the Mirador, the look out in the bay later on.

Starting a day fishing for bonefish is so fun. Especially to shake the cast out, and probably have a few fish. The bay bones fish aren’t huge, 1-3 lbs with the occasional 4-7lber but they are plentiful. Once we found a large pod in one of the many secret lagoons Rueben knows like the back of his hand, Tuck cycled through some of the many flys he tied while I stuck with a crab. We went fish for fish for a few hours until we made our way out to deeper permit water.

Close to lunchtime and the Mirador, we saw our first group of Permit. They were thugs, 10 big fish. They were cruising a little fast so not a great shot. Later, 5 minutes? More permit. Different permit, also big. Surprise backhand shot, but the fish saw the rod wave and scramed. A minute later, more fish at the point, a tail! Long cast, the fish kick off, they must have seen us leering from the boat. Another cast, we’re getting frantic, we have a follow! No eat, cast again, a follow, heart in my throat! The fish behavior changes, they kick again and they’re off…

 We’re late for lunch but we’re at the Mirador. The other boat is anchored drinking cold cervesas.

BARRACUDA!! Scramble for the cuda’ rod, 10wt. chug the popper. Cuda’ is not interested.

Alright, alright, cool it. We’re here all week!

Lunch on the boats is a simple but always delicious. Shrimp or chicken tacos, Fanta, nacho Doritos. Cervesa. Porque Mexico.

After lunch, Tuck is up, and we begin cruising a likely edge for maybe bones, but probably Permit. Before long, nervous water, 1 o’clock, 100ft, its coming! Tuck struggles to see, but he sees at 70’ and makes a cast. “Strip!” says Reuben, “Strip!” “Cast again, 2 o’clock, 60 feet.” “Strip!” He calls again, but the fish are gone. A pole push, and were scanning furthur along the mangrove edge. Nervous water again, this time at 4 o’clock, moving left 50 ft! As the school of permit come into view, shimmering shapes and black fins, Tuck makes a cast,  but aided by the wind at his back, he’s long! The school is 30 fish deep. He strips, strips, strips! And comes tight!

Tuck has been here before, but isn’t sure it’s a permit, Bonefish often hang with permit and pick your fly on the edge. But quickly, we see a black fin 100 out and its surely a permit. We snap a few choice shots with Reubens new ”Cazador” boat logo and let the fish swim away…

After talking deep into the night about our first day fishing, we awoke ready. Coffee, breakfast ordered, mess with a few things, and get to the dock on time!

I jump in with Ryan in Filipe’s boat as Tuck and Bailey are with Reuben. Filipe picks a favorite tune to blast in the custom Panga speakers for the ride out, and were off! A short ride has us in the bay, looking for permit off a likely point.

Ryan has fished Baja a few weeks so is familiar with casting heavier rods. His 9wt is rigged with 16lb for permit, we have a 10wt stashed with a popper and wire, and I have two other 9wts.

I always help look for fish, even when I am not up to bat. We’re scanning when Filipe spots jacks marauding the inside, behind us on our 6. They dash off so we keep scanning. 10 minutes later, moving left, 40ft, 9 o’clock, back hand shot! Black tails, 3, no 6 fish! Ryan lands the crab on a tail. The fish kicks off but there is another behind! The fly is intercepted, but its a jack crevall who’s with the permit, a mixed school!

Ryan had hooked a big jack yesterday, and knew what he was in for on 16lb. Ideally for a jack you have heavier line so you can pull harder on them. They’re not picky eaters like permit. After a 40-minute skillful tussle, we’re close, but the leader is frayed from rubbing coral on the 200 yard runs and the fish pops at the boat. At least we touched the leader!

We spent much of the rest of the day looking for permit, seeing a few and even getting a shot to fish ocean side where the wind had calmed in the afternoon. The session highlighted with a big permit that Ryan made a beautiful shot followed by a few tailing trigger fish on the stunning reef.

Back at the dock, our buddies in the other boat had wrangled with tarpon all morning and had lavish stories of jumping dozens of fish on gurglers.  

Day three of fishing broke calmer. After breakfast we wiped our 9wt lines with an armour-all rag I brought to keep them smooth from the sticky salt. I was with Bailey and Filipe today while Ryan and Tuck were off with Reuben.

The calm day allowed us to fish off the front and the magical blue Caribbean. Protected by the Mesoamerican reef, the near shore flats host lots of permit. The mornings shots were mostly surprising as a fish appeared from a dark to a light bottom. Bailey, new to fly casting but a college baseball player, was struggling with his double haul and quick shots. I had a couple follows when I was up. We decided to retreat to the bay for lunch, and maybe fish for bonefish. Along the white sand of the inner bay, we spotted a huge pile of a couple hundred bonefish and anchored the boat to pester them for lunch. 

Getting out and wading is a great way to get closer to fish. These shallow water fish are keyed into threats from above, but in the water, you can get much closer, often within 40ft.

Bailey took position and was immediately into a bone! With Filipe on his elbow, I took position 100ft away and made some casts at the fish. A fun but somewhat frustrating 10 minutes transpired where the bones would bite my little shrimp, I’d have them for a brief moment, and they would be off. I switched to a crab and bingo, big eats! They ate the crab much harder and I pulled 5 or so out of the crowd.

Like many of the most magical moments in fly fishing, the next 30 minutes were a bit of a blur.

Bailey was posted up casting when I looked across the flat and saw black finned torpedo’s, backs out of the water, charging up the bonefish flat. “PERMIT” I yelled and charged the thigh deep water on an intercept course. Filipe quickly was at my elbow as I made my first cast. I had changed my fly again a moment earlier to sample a new shrimp and knew it was not the right fly for the permit. It was too light and small, these fish were eating hard and making a ruckus. They swam off without seeing my fly from several well placed casts.

Frantically, we waded along with them as Filipe plucked a crab from my hat and tied it on while moving. The fish stopped and I made a cast. He followed! I cast again at the rooting fish and my line tightened for a second then went slack. The fish had kissed my fly! But then the fish were moving off again and Filipe and I were left dumbtruck.

 We waded back to the boat while a long cast away Bailey was still rooted to the same spot, railing bones.

At the boat Filipe and I with his broken English and me with my semi-functional Spanish asked the gods what had happened. They were good shots. Really good shots.

A while later and after a cold CocaCola, Bailey waded back to the boat and we hopped in to search further down the flat. But not 30 seconds into loading up, Filipe spotted permit at 300 feet making a huge mud cloud!

“Lets go” he yelled, and we were in in a dash, wading waist deep. At 60 ft I cast into the mud and the mess of permit tails.

But where was my fly? Shit I didn’t have a fly!

In the boat seconds before I was re tying my rig with fresh leader, lighter because of my previous refusal. I had jumped into the fray before tying on a fly!

Filipe ripped the same crab the permit had kissed earlier from my hat and tied it on. He’s shaking. I’m shaking. The permit were moving closer. We backed up. They kept coming, we kept backing. Finally, with the fish 40ft away, I had a fly!  I cast right into the middle of the gang of thug permit. They were big, tails up, feeding like crazy. But no eat! I cast again, letting my crab slow sink, just pulling slack out, and the line came tight! I strip set and the fish was off in a bolt. I had to clear 30ft of extra line as the reel hit the drag. A few soft adjustments on my Galvan to tighten up as backing ripped off at astonishing speed. These fish run fast!

 After 10 minutes, the thrill was over, but I still had 150 yards of backing out and had followed the fish halfway to Belize.

Eventually, Filipe in his undersized net managed to scoop the permit. Celebration! Bailey had waited a patient 45 minutes to take a picture, which Filipe then insisted to have his boat in the background. We waded the 1/3 mile back to the boat and so, I had my first permit of the trip, what a rush! 

The only thing left to do was to go try to catch a tarpon for the Grand Slam. I’d never had a slam, so I felt pretty detached. After the permit I could have gone in for one of Francisco’s margaritas, but I guessed tarpon were at least along the way.

After a short run with music blaring, we crept into a back lagoon that was oddly quiet, secluded from the incessant wind. The quiet was stilling and not long after entering the lagoon, we spotted a group of small tarpon working a mangrove edge. I was up as Bailey was kind enough to allow me first shots and I capitalized! It was a small tarpon but a slam non the less. Cool. We caught a few more tarpon from a couple small schools and made in for the evening’s libations. And Lobster. Francisco had dove the reef for us that day and dinner was spectacular.

Our fourth day of fishing broke windy and cloudy. Not very optimal sight fishing conditions. We acknowledged at the dock that nervous water and tails would be our only salvation. We’d have a tough time seeing much in the water past 50 ft. Today I was with Ryan and Filipe and Tuck with Bailey in Reuben’s boat.

The other area guides had much the same game plan to avoid the wind. There were quite a few boats on the sheltered flats. Filipe crept away from the other boats and we had our first shot of the morning, three happy bonefish. Ryan quickly got a 40ft shot out at 12 oclock. The first two fish followed, but feigned off. A third fish came to inspect and pounced! A nice bone fish, even nicer considering the conditions.

Later, after a few hours of not much, I was at the bow with a bonefish rod when a large solo jack was spotted cruising. Ryan deftly grabbed the rod rigged with wire and a streamer for Barracuda and made an epic quick shot to the jack. In an instant the jack swirled around and annihilated the anchovy. Line screamed from the bottom of the boat and as the line cleared, it caught the handle and the fly popped. He broke 20lb. Damn jacks are strong. Most of the rest of the day was a wash, but we did find a few tarpons to wrap up with and then enjoyed another beautiful evening on the steps the of the Caribbean.

Another day on the flats breaks. Dreams of Permit. Maybe sun today? The clouds have broken some, but the wind is still with us. Demaciado viento.

I mixed up my usual breakfast and enjoyed huevos Mexicana before a.m. ablutions and rod prep. The ritual was engrained. Meet 10 minutes before the guides, armour all and re stack lines, and hastily sunscreen up. By now we respected the sun and were covered up. A few were nursing good burns on their legs, noses and shins.

Today I was with Bailey and Reuben, and we wanted to go bonefishing.

Reuben in classic style took us deep into a sequence of lagoons, where I easily got turned around. The morning was still and quiet save for the occasional frigate bird, osprey, or mangrove finch. After an hour of searching Reuben found a school of a hundred bones flashing happily in 2ft of water. These opportunities were priceless for Bailey and over an hour or so he really had a chance to fine tune his double haul. Releasing the right amount of line on a cast, maintaining load, and then shooting line had been tough, but all it clicked here and 70ft became a real shot for him. Nice!

The bones were back eating on my crab. After a few more bonefish we went through a couple of those choice flies when a small barracuda would rushed the fly and severed the tippet. I’d have to tie a few more in the evening. As per usual, the fly I have most confidence in on a saltwater trip is the one I tied the night before…

Today, like most days, the Woodpecker poked is head out of his hole and welcomed the light. I’d decided to tie a few more of my special crabs in the morning before breakfast. From my ziplock bag of materials and travel vise I quickly spun some rubber legs, EP and thread into a couple quarter sized crabs.

I wouldn’t use it much today, we caught a few bones in the morning, but the tarpon in the lagoons were happy and rolling so Tuck and I stuck a few and called it a day. Fishing the flats is tough when its cloudy.

Where did the week go? Our last day fishing. Our routine was so dialed. Coffee, breakfast, gear, dock at 8. Ryan was willing to look hard for permit, the one fish he had not caught on the trip, so Tuck elected to fish with Bailey while we went permit fishing with Reuben.

Today Reuben would start our day in dirty water looking for tarpon. We did indeed see a few and Ryan made some great shots, but the tarpon were feeding lackluster, and even after a long peruse on the reef side flats, we saw no permit and headed into the bay.

We scanned what seemed like miles of permit water with hardly any other boats around. The other lodge had a changeover day today.

Finally, after one more permit drift, Reuben suggested we wade for bones. With this wind and tide, there would be big ones in close. We anchored the boat, donned our shoes and spread out in a delta shape to walk a hard 2ft flat next to a mangrove edge. I was on the deeper water side, and hoped to see a permit. Reuben held the Cuda’ rod and Ryan scanned the inner mangroves.

One of the neatest things about fishing on foot is how much closer the fish let you get. Our first bones appeared in front no less then 20ft away. Too close in fact, the flash of the cast sent them scurrying. Further down, Ryan spotted a nice solo cruising the bank. He let out a cast and stripped a few times with no eat. Again, he cast, this time more left, stripped and was on! The big bone ran the bank to his backing in one smooth move. A few tussles and another run and Ryan had him secured. Ghostly and pale, it was one of the best bones of the trip.

After lunch and a few more hours burned looking for permit, we hung our heads and asked Reuben to take our last hour or so and go bonefishing.

We chugged into a skinny lagoon and got to fishing. Just 100 yards into the lagoon we saw flashes ahead and a few small sets of bones flanking the main pod.

The shots were beginning to present and I was up so I peeled out some line to get ready when Rueben called “permit! 9 o’clock!” I had been looking at two o’clock and was about to cast at some bones when a squadron of medium sized permit pushed over a skinny spot into the flat at a perfect 9 o’clock, 60ft cast. As the permit entered the gang split and started rooting around. I made a cast between them right as they split and my fly was left there unseen. I tried to read the fish and their direction as I stripped in for my next cast. Most fish moving right. A couple left. I picked up and threw at 12. Strip, strip, I see fish running under my line! Strip, strip BAM! But I’m too tight, my strip set is too much! The fish ate it hard, and like a gunshot, I broke my fly off and line shot back to the boat in a heap. I was out, and the permit had taken my last little crab.

But Ryan still had a shot and stepped up to the bow. The permit were still somewhere in the flat. “There!” cried Reuben, but too far. They came in and out of sight before disappearing to deeper water.

We continued to scan near and far in what was now a calm, hot afternoon with little wind and good sun. In the distance a few hundred feet away, I thought I spotted a permit tail. Then it was gone. A ripple, nervous water, then gone again. A minute goes by and again, a tail! 12 o’clock, 200 feet! I jump out of the boat retied and Ryan stays at the bow. By now two distinct groups of fish had appeared, cruising, tailing and pushing around. I wade away and made a few casts on the far group but a bone snakes by shrimp. I’m screwed, but maybe Ryan on the bow?  A few frantic minutes later the permit have disappeared again and we’ve just about run out the clock.

For one last play, Reuben thinks the permit might have gone across to the other point so we putt over there and take a look. With Ryan at the bow, we see nervous water again! Ryan is jacked, pumping an 80ft cast that goes beautifully until the last loop catches his big toe. The fly is 20ft short. Again, he casts, long, but he is stepping on the line! A few more casts, but the fish are moving away and out of reach. They disappear into the deeper water and Reuben says in a final tone “reel it in, it’s time to go.”

The cervesa tasted oh so good on the short ride back to the lodge. At the dock Bailey and Tuck had equally fun stories to share of their last day.

Over a few too many margaritas, Tuck expounded long about the pod of bonefish Bailey and him worked for an hour and the barracuda that opened a 4/0 hook. Apparently, the bonefish commotion attracted a 5ft barracuda and when Tuck had cast the popper to him he played cat and mouse with it. After several shots which the cuda’ charging the fly then backing off, at 30 feet the fish ultimately devoured the popper. He screamed away at a speed only a barracuda can go. IYKYK!

Chef was kind enough to prepare us some breakfast tacos for the van ride the following morning to Tulum. We were happy to have something in our stomach.

Manny’s brother drove us up the jungle road in record time, to the new airport sparkling at the edge of the jungle. The scenes melted by the window as we began compiling what were now memories of an unforgetabble saltwater trip. No doubt, we will repeat it next year in 2025!

Irongate Reservoir is Draining

It’s hard to believe it’s finally here, but the resevoir behind Irongate dam began to drain today at 2200 or so cfs. The next few weeks will reveal a “new” river behind the dam, and what a sight it will be!

Draining Iron Gate Reservoir thru the same tunnel the river flowed thru when the dam was built!

Hither Restaurant Review

Excellent, fresh, well prepared breakfast and lunch fare. Do not miss!

Frontiers Steelhead Experience - Early September trip report

I once fished the hallowed waters of B.C on a road trip to Alaska. But it was brief, uneventful and hardly an introduction to some of the most famous river systems in the world. So when the chance fell upon my lap to visit again for a real introduction, I jumped. 

This time’s trip would be based out of Frontiers Lodge with longtime client and friend Steve. 

Frontiers is a premier steelhead experience on the Bulkley system, with helicopter access to other inaccessible waters. There’s acclaimed chefs, exceptional comfort (your own cabin with heated floors!) experienced guides and fabled rivers. 

Even though the lodge hosts 12 anglers a week, the unique set up feels like half that. The guests split the week between the Bulkley and their upper river establishment on the Morice. 

Our first day was a half day, lodge staff picked us up at our hotel in Smithers for our short drive over to the lodge to check into our cabin, have a bite to eat and then head out for an afternoon session. 

We jumped in the truck and set off to see if we could turn a fish or two on a skated dry fly. Steve got a small fish to hand on the dry and I turned a fish on my second cast but couldn’t get it back. 

Frontiers full service bar and and 3 course dinners did not disappoint!

On our first full day of fishing, four guests packed up for the Morice, a few days of clothes and fishing equipment was all we needed for our stay at their upper lodge.

Like most of the west coast, fires smoldered in the distance and on the way up to the Mo…

It was a pink salmon year on the Skeena system and apparently the largest return in 30 some odd years. Our first and second day on the Morice was slow for steelhead, but the procession of pink salmon was reminiscent of a National Geographic film…

The Morice lodge is a cozy outpost with everything you need and nothing you don’t. Joe, the chef prepared scrumptious meals, the linens and beds were very comfortable and the splashing of pink salmon spawning on the gravel bar out front helped sleep come easy. 

On our third and final day on the Morice the weather cooled, clouds rolled in and there was a notable change on the river. 

The many thousands of pinks seemed to consolidate over night, grouping on the edges or moving to the gravel and it finally seemed as if the steelhead might have enough space again to find the room to chase down a swung fly. 

In the first run of the day Steve locked into a nice XXlb fish that sadly spit the hook after a few minutes tussle. 

Shortly after I lucked into a fish and managed to lead mine in for a quick picture with guide Jordan. The fish had been tagged, so Jordan got the information to report. 

A few runs later, Steve found a pod of biters and in quick succession hooked a few…

My last fish of the day came on a long, broadside cast to the far side. Nearly instantly after the fly landed I felt a touch, and the fish proceeded to pluck the fly for 40 feet before he climbed on enough to set up on him. Tight to the fish I waded in, Jordan looking on, but the fish came to the surface, much like Steve’s earlier and threw the hook on a good head thrash. 

Back at the main lodge we were pleased to hear others along the river had done well and the change in weather had stirred a bite across the system.

I was excited to get back on the Bulkley the next day, this time downstream, near the canyon, and below the spawning pinks. 

The water in the canyon is lovely, but in spite of our best efforts, the fish eluded us until the very last run.  Stripping in my dry fly a fish boiled but I couldn’t reintrigue it. I noticed four fish traveling close to the bank that day and I made a mental note that if I returned to that beat I’d wade no deeper then my ankles and fish closer to shore.

The following day was on the upper Bulkely and lower Morice and back to the land of spawning Pinks. But at least here there were a few willing participants in the area.

My fishing partner Victor was fast into fish in the morning. With the prevalence of spawning pinks we noticed the steelhead were acting like large trout, sipping eggs in shallow water behind redds.  B.C. yes, but steelhead anywhere can’t resist eggs.

I managed a couple nice fish before we moved along to another pool downstream. 

Just before lunch Victor locked into his best fish of the trip…

That evening back at the main lodge I chatted with Ed, an angler from the UK about his experience of fishing the lower Bulkley as I’d be headed back there for my final day fishing. Much like me the day before he’d had a slower day but he did manage to hook a fish (on the hang down) and also briefly stripping in his dry fly. I had all the info I needed and was ready. Fish no deeper than my ankles and refrain from fishing long casts. 

Delighted to be back on the water with Steve again, in the first run of the day he found a player! Apparently the fish boilded a few times at his fly and even ate it, but alas he couldn’t quite tighten up. 

About mid way thru the day I was chatting with our guide Michael about how fast I should be fishing my dry fly. He was of the opinion to fish it fast, as fast as I could get it to go. 

Up to that point I had been chugging my dry, much as I often do at home. But in a long bouldery run where my chugged fly just didn’t seem to be fishing right I started changing my angles and cast to achieve a faster swing and presentation. 

By casting slightly upstream and turning my rod tip downstream, essentially dragging by my fly with a belly down stream, I was able to achieve a delightful, fast skitter that immediately caught the attention of some resident bull trout and smolt. No steelhead yet, but I’d obviously figured out something that triggered a response.

Sticking with my new presentation of drawing my fly quickly through the insides of the pool I found my first fish of the day wading ankle deep, with less then the shooting head out of my rod tip, in two feet of water, 10ft from the bank. 

A bright chrome small bulkley fish, we admired it and quickly let it go. 

With just a few runs to go before I needed to get to Smithers airport for my evening flight to Vancouver, I kept at my fast presentation, fishing short and moving quickly. After steaming thru a run that didn’t seem right for the dry fly, Michael encouraged me to jump down a few hundred yards to the next run while Steve was working the gut upstream with a tip.

The next run had a shallow shelf high in the riffle that cascaded into a shallow boulder field that looked just deep enough to hold a fish. 

I kept my upstream cast, downstream belly and draw, maneuvering my fly thru the pool. Just a dozen casts in, a fish peeled off the shelf and tore off down stream ten feet before snatching the dry fly like a trout. Watching the fish fold off the ledge and accelerate to the downstream swinging fly was one of the better dry fly eats I can remember, so fun!

I let out a whoop that apparently Michael could hear from a quarter mile away and he came racing with the net to help out. 

That last fish of BC was the most memorable because it reminded me that steelhead are steelhead, no matter where you might be fishing for them. It always helps to try and pick up those subtle hints a river might be telling you. And as always in steelheading, never forget its more then hang it out there and hope like hell.

Thank you to Steve for the invite, Frontiers for having such a top shelf operation, the lodge staff and chefs, guides Jordan, Ollie, Michael and Nick and the Morice and Bulkley rivers.

The Palometa Club Trip Report

We just recently returned from hosting a group to the Palometa Club in Punta Allen, Mexico where we enjoyed a week of adventure exploring the flats of Ascension Bay. Renowned for its diverse and robust fishery and located within the Sian Ka’an Bisophere protected reserve, our trip to the Palometa Club left us with a heap a new memories and friendships only good times on the water can bring.

Trip Prep

A few rods are in order to fish the Yucutan. And, A LOT of flies! Palometa Club is a Grand Slam destination. The big three; bonefish, permit and tarpon are front and center in the fishery, but there are also snook, jacks and barracuda. Prepping for this trip was a super fun endeavor. The folks joining me hadn’t fished this part of Mexico before so to make the trip easier for everyone we supplied all the flies, terminal gear and extra rods. With a bonefish, permit, tarpon and cuda’ rod in each boat we were ready for anything that swam by!

Essential Gear

• Tapered leaders to 10 & 16lb

• Flourocarbon spools in 50, 40, 30, 25, 20, 16, 12 & 10lb

• 25-40lb wirebite

• Flies

• Nippers, pliers, easy on flats shoes or boots

• Bag for in the boat and while wading

• Lots of Flies!

• Bonefish - 9’8wt with floating saltwater line, tapered 10ft leader to 10lb

• Permit - 9’ 9wt with floating saltwater line, tapered 15ft leader to 15lb

• Tarpon // Snook - 9’ 9wt with floating saltwater line, 6-8ft of straight 40lb

• Barracuda - 9’ 9 or 10wt with floating saltwater line, 7ft leader tapered to 30lb, swivle, 10” knotable wire

Getting there

Mexico, the Myan Riviera, and the Palometa Club in general is a super easy trip to embark on. I have arranged my travel in a few different ways before, and it really depends on how much time you have on the beginning and end of the trip.

Coming from the west coast, flights were a little hard find that got us to our final destination on the same day as departure. You could jump on a red eye, arrive in Cancun airport early in the morning and get to the lodge that afternoon. Or as I did, go the more relaxed route, fly the day before for an afternoon Cancun arrival, grab a hotel room, and be ready for the morning shuttle to the lodge the day after you fly into Canun. Our group did both.

I arranged for everyone to meet at the Airport Marriot Hotel which offers a complimentary airport shuttle so we could have some coffee and breakfast before Manny, the Palometa Clubs shuttle provider picked us up and began that land transport leg of the trip. The shuttle from Cancun to TPC is a two-leg affair. As the lodge is far down the Sian Ka’an Biosphere and the road is terrible at the end, guides picked us up at the Boca Paila bridge and shuttled us the remaining distance via Lancha (boat).

Into the BioSphere

The 45 minute boat ride melted away quickly as we made out way south through a series of channels and lagoons to Punta Allen and our base, the Palometa Club. Part of our motivation to visit “TPC” this season was to spend a few days with our friend Francois Botha in his new management position at the Club. We met Franbo when he was a guide for the Aniak River Lodge and figured it would be a blast to fish with him again. Fanbo’s wife, Dasha joins him as co-manager at the lodge and they are a super fun duo to spend time with and added to our delightful experience there.

The Palometa Club

At its heart TPC is a hard core fisherman’s lodge with the best guides in Ascension Bay, a comfortable renovated accomodation, excellent local cuisine and inviting hospitality. The lodge overlooks the mesoamerican reef, the second longest in the world while the swaying coconut palms and open bar draw you outside into the entertaining area and warm Caribbean air.

We were greeted at the lodge with Franbo’s first ever Margaritas and after settling into our rooms tasty appetizers were brought out to the bar. We swapped fishing stories and chatted about our travel and saltwater fishing while we waited for dinner and our upcoming orientation to be presented by “Gerry.” He’s the man in Punta Allen - a 25 year guide, head TPC guide, manager of one of the cooperativos, mayor of Punta Allen, and a few other titles aside.

The Accomodation

Excited for fishing after a long travel day, the renovations at TPC really showed. Inside the air conditioned lodge there are four spacious double occupancy rooms with ensuite renovated bathrooms. Two units are down stairs and three are up. A comfortable sitting room is off of the main dinning area and kitchen but the space blends indoor and outdoor areas nicely. Comfortable beds and linens made sleep easy. Each room has a mini split that blows cold air what ever the outside temps and the showers have plenty of hot water. Electricity is 100% of the time. There is Fast Wifi. The things we take for granted in the states but are hard to get reliably in such a remote place the TPC nails on all fronts!

Ready to hit the Water!

After a delicious breakfast each morning and a great nights sleep we were ready to hit the flats! The guides met us out front at 8am each morning. There are two guides per boat, a lead and apprentice, which makes for a 1:1 ratio on the water and a welcome extra set of eyes to spot fish. The boats are comfortable 23ft super pangas, locally called Lanchas. These stable boats are great to fish out of, cut thru the oceans chop beautifully and the expert guides can pole them thru some really skinny flats.

Our first day had a cold front flow through, and the ocean out front was a little rough, so we walked a few minutes to the back lagoon to the boats to start our day. On other days, the guides were able to pick us up and or drop us off right at the beach in front.

Fishing Ascension Bay

The mix of habitats, flats, mangrove edges and islands here is simply astounding. We spent our first couple of days fishing the northern end of the bay and lagoons near Boca Paila for bonefish and snook. We all found wiling bonefish, hooked a few tarpon and jacks and even saw a few Permit. As the conditions changed, we roamed far and wide, north south, east and west.

Like all flats destinations, all of the fishing was done to sighted fish in water ranging from 6” to 8ft. It came as no surprise when it was the guides who were most adept at seeing fish first. When an opportunity presented itself, the guides worked in tandem, communicating with each other to line up the shot. Often times, the apprentice guide would set out on foot with the angler at bat while the boat and head guide on the platform stayed back, keeping an eye on the fish. All the fish of the flats are keenly aware of overhead threats and whenever possible getting into the water reduces your presence and also allowed closer shots and easier casts.

Exploring Punta Allen

The village of Punta Allen is delightfully small and quaint. Most of the village is tied to fishing in some way shape or form, either through guiding with the various lodges, or the lobster season. There are a few restaurants, a soccer pitch, and the big highlight and must see is the giant permit in the center of town.

The Food

Full days of fishing left us hungry and the the cuisine at TPC did not disappoint. Skillfully prepared and authentic, no one was left wanting. Ceviche, fish, shrimp, lobster, pork and chicken was all on the menu, and their habanero salsas were outstanding!

More Fishing

By the end of the week, the cold front had passed and we had more shots on the flats, particularly for bones but also more permit began to show. I vividly remember some big singles out on the ocean side that practically glowed yellow in the sun. Good presentations got snaked by ladyfish and bones but these were exciting encounters non the less. Each day we had a few shots per boat, but the last couple days presented some memorable chances with schools, doubles and happy fish. No one was able to seal the deal this time but the fish were there in ample numbers. We also enjoyed casting at a few Barracuda on the flats which led to some exciting follows and blow ups.

Coming Home

Like most good fishing trips, this one came and went all too fast. We left the Palometa Club, Franbo and Dasha, Punta Allen and Ascension Bay as familiar friends. The back end logistics of the trip were as simple as the front end. After a warm breakfast and hugs all around we hopped into Christian and Luis’ boats one last time for the boat ride up to the Boca Paila bridge where Manny was waiting to get us to the airport. Ned and Bill were headed home, but Steve was off to do some sightseeing and I was carrying on with another fellow to fish another week elsewhere (trip report coming soon!)

We can’t thank the Palometa Club enough for making our trip so smooth and unforgettable. We are looking forward to another visit soon!

Question and Answer: Aniak River with Brandon Worthington

Where is the Aniak River located in Alaska and what is the travel like to get there?

The Aniak River is located in Western Alaska, north of the Bristol Bay region and a tributary to one of the great terminal rivers of western Alaska, the Kuskowim. For being so remote and isolated, the Aniak is an easy place to get to. Anglers overnight in Anchorage before boarding a quick 1.5hr commercial flight the following morning to the village of Aniak where lodge guides await our arrival. From there its a quick ride to the base lodge for orientation and lunch before we strike off, fishing our way up to the mid river lodge and the base for the full week of fishing ahead. One of the big Aniak values is this first half day of fishing puts us into our first Pike and Sheefish of the trip in addition to the following 6 full days on the water.

What are the fish species that you’ll catch on the Aniak?

Mouse eating Leapord rainbow that regularly tape over 2 ft are the prize. But the river is also stuffed with grayling to 18 inches, Dolly Varden with Northern Pike and Sheefish in the lower beats of the river. Seasonally, large runs of Chum, Pinks, Silver, Sockeye and Kings also ascend the river. During our last trip we had one angler hook and land 8 species in one day!

Who enjoys the fishing program at Aniak?

Anyone who likes big visual takes, tight line grabs and fishing the surface. First off, the Aniak has 80 miles of guided river, as well as many uncounted miles of side channels and braids. Anglers who love not seeing other anglers, fishing un-pressured water for big aggressive fish, and seeing a varied, remote alaskan river have a great experience here. Fishing can be both on foot, or out of the boat, either anchored or on the drift. The Aniak guides can accommodate anglers of all physical abilities. Last season, some folks fished almost exclusively out of the boat, pulling mouse and streamer patterns off the bank Montana style, anchoring in prime log jams, and drifting prime runs. Others parked the boat and explored miles of braids on foot, scrambling over log jams and adventuring around the next bend. What’s neat about the Aniak is all of the water, from skinny channels to the big main river hold big, aggressive fish.

What are the Accommodations Like?

A Deluxe Safari Style Camp. These big, comfortable platform structures are far from a tent. These 30x10 double (or single) occupancy weatherports have electricity, a partitioned en suite shower, vanity, and flush toilet. Each tent is furnished with two comfortable raised beds with foam mattress, nice linens, quilt and pillow. There is also a small card table and chairs inside. To keep any bugs that might sneak in thru the front door when you get in and out each bed has a mosquito net. One of the best features of each weatherport is the front porch which is covered, has chairs and offers a fantastic view overlooking the Aniak.

How’s the Food?

Aniak River Lodge employees a talented chef which handles all of the meals for the group. All meals are served in the dinning hall and are family style. Breakfasts of eggs, sausage meats,  pastries and breads send you out the door. Lunch is on the water, and is a variety of simple but adequate sandwiches, wraps and chips unless you prefer a shore lunch to cook up a dolly or when in season, a salmon. Appetizers greet anglers quickly after returning from fishing and is followed by a hearty entree and desert. Pizza night is a big hit where everyone hangs around the pizza oven as chef keeps them coming until we can’t take anymore. The lodge does not supply alcohol but it can easily be brought in with pre arrangement.

What is a Sheefish?

Sheefish are cool. Sometimes referred to as the Tarpon of the North, they are found in only a few rivers in Alaska. These smolt eaters hang in the lower river and eat small fish as they out migrate to sea. They can grow large, jump and are even anadromous, moving between their spawning beds and the ocean each year. They are the largest member in the whitefish family.

Fishing for Sheefish is on the swing, down and scross, steelhead style. The fish often porpose, chrashing small fish and give away their positions.

When is the best time to be on the Aniak and how does the fishery change over the season?

Our hosted week (July 5-12) is positioned during the prime mousing window early-mid July - just as Chums, Kings, Pinks and Sockeye are charging into the river but before the egg drop and spawning activity. We specifically chose this week to NOT need to fish beads thru the redds of spawning salmon but instead fish the prime lies of the river like log jams, banks and side channels where the Rainbows ambush the abundant rodents that unfortunately find themselves in the water. 

Who is Aniak River Lodge?

ARL is run by managing partner Ludi Garrak who is in front of and behind the entire operation. A former guide here 20 years ago, Ludi still enjoys the fishery and has a hand in the day to day operations both from the base lodge in the village and mid river camp. You’ll often see him for dinner or running supplies up or down, hair blown back, ray bans on and a big smile all the way.

The guides at Aniak are seasoned alaskan professionals and wizzes at running jet boats thru the rivers' complexity. All have experience elsewhere and have chosen to be Aniak guides because of the unique and outstanding fishing program here. Most come back each season and in 2023 we expect the same cast of characters. They are all great communicators and passionate about the way of the mouse.

Why is the Aniak one of the coolest Alaskan fishing experiences?

Mousing, mousing, MOUSING! The mousing capital of the free world literally allows anglers to fish a mouse pattern all day, every day and find lots of success. Because the Aniak flows thru a boreal forest, the shrews, voles and mice are abundant. Add in loads of log jams and you have perfect structure for large fish to ambush big meals. Additionally, the Aniak River Lodge is the only operation and lodge in the region. Unlike Bristol Bay where there are numerous lodges on each river and fly outs competing to drop folks off before the other guys, you are truly alone in this great alaskan wilderness. Additionally, anglers don’t fish the same water twice, rotating thru the beat system, fishing with different guides, and experiencing the river top to bottom and side to side.

These un pressured fish reflect that only 150 or so rods fish here each year and are beautiful; intact maxillaries, firm bodies, bright colors and brazen demeanor.

Yucutan Flys

I’m stacking up some flys for our January trip to the Yucutan. We’ll be fishing Ascencion bay, Xcalak and Chetumal Bay, Super Fun Fishing Trip!

Spey Fishing Steelhead

Fishing Mice on the Aniak River, Alaska

Each July Brandon host a group of anglers to the Aniak River, the mousing capital of the world, with Aniak River Fishing Lodge.

These fish are no joke, literally tearing after mice skated on the surface, providing some of the coolest freshwater fishing anywhere in the world, period!

While we didn’t make this video, this drippy afternoon has be thinking about the northland and our upcoming week in 2023. Enjoy the video and drop us a line if you care to join in our adventure to the Aniak next summer!

Northern California & Southern Oregon Steelhead Fly Fishing

Gaspe Salmon, the Good, the Bad and the Ugly.

Craig’s bucket list trip, June 9- July 9th 2022

The Restigouche: The trip started out good as both my bag and I arrived in Quebec City with only a few hour delay and my rental car was good to go. It soon turned Ugly. My first lodge on the Restigouche River had no fish as First Nations were netting just downstream and the lodge staff were instructed not to let us know this was occurring. The good news is that I received a refund a few days in.

The Matapedia: So, I arrived at my second lodge on the Matapedia a few days early to find unseasonably high but clearing water. There were a few fish around, including some over 30lbs, but limited places to wade fish and many anglers. My trip turned bad when I discovered though my guide had a boat, he didn’t know how to use it and nearly drown us. I don’t think it was on purpose?

Each morning I was the first one to wade fish a run, each beat after that, I was not. I managed to move a few fish but it wasn’t until half way through the second week before I hooked the fish of the trip. My guide thought it was a twenty pounder, I thought perhaps a tad lighter. It took several long runs including the last where it jumped three times in succession before becoming unpinned (due to Pilot Error). I moved a few more fish but had no more hooks ups.

Gaspe: The trip turned good for the final two weeks when my long time friend Ed arrived from the wine country to fish with me. We stayed in a motel in the scenic village of Gaspe, home to the York, Dartmouth and Saint Jean Rivers and ate amazing meals in the local restaurants. Again the anglers outnumbered the fish and available runs but the competition was nothing but friendly. We fished some amazingly beautiful water and I landed my first Atlantic on the York River. The guide said 12lbs, I thought 10lbs, so we settled on 11lbs because, in all my years I’ve never heard anyone claim an 11lber! Both Ed and I moved a few more adult fish, a few Grilse (think Klamath Adults Steelhead) with Ed losing a spectacularly large, bright, hot fish on the Dartmouth that took right under my nose. We both landed a few Sea Trout which in this part of the world are Sea Run Brookies.

Bonaventure: We then visited the little town of Bonaventure with the famed crystal clear River with the same name running through it for our final few days. Our guide was Claude Bernard, the Dean of the River, a true gentleman of 84 years. We fished from his Sharps Canoe and also used it to access the best runs. We landed a few Sea Trout (I turned out to be King of the Sea Trout, landing double digits numbers), hooked a few Grilse and moved some Adult Atlantics to dead drifted Bombers! It was good I didn’t die of a heart attack watching these monsters rise to inspect my offering! I managed to land a large Grilse at the end of a long lineup of locals who had befriended us on the most popular run the next to last day. Our final day we would see that fish had moved in and a few gave us looks but we couldn’t get them to commit! We wished we could have stayed longer. I wished I had more years ahead of me than behind me to further explore this amazing part of the planet.

Drop a line if you are interested in visiting the Gaspe. I know more than when I left, and will share all that I am able. Good tip: a complicated access permit system means it’s critical to plan your trip well before the November 1 draw deadlines for the following year.

Fire is a regular visitor to the Klamath

Fire is a regular visitor to the Klamath

When I look in the background of literally most of my river pictures its easy to see the evidence of fire… A ridge top here, a fire scar there.

It seems nearly every year now though there is is a fire on the Klamath. Much of it goes un-noticed, just the hassle of poor air quality and red flag alerts. But its particularly acute when it affects the people and communities that live along the Klamath. Hornbrook in 2018. Happy Camp in 2021 and now Klamath River in 2022. 

I’m stricken imagining what it must have been like for the folks who lived in the fires path, using the road just behind me here to flee west and away. 

On the day it blew up I was just 20 miles upriver and watching the pycrocumulus flare …

I have learning from being in and immersed in the Klamath’s landscape for months at a time each year that fire comes and fire goes. It shouldn’t be this frequent and intense, but it also is no stranger.

Three times now, I’ve literally been on the water when blazes started. Every year I’ve been astounded at this places fortitude and ability to spring back.

I’m heartened it appears the worst has passed. And I know as has been proven each year time and time again that the Klamath is as resilient a river as any that exists. It’s fish are no stranger to adversity. In spite of everything we can throw; Dams, toxic algae, disease, climate change, fires and floods, the river and its fish persist.

Hang in their K - it sounds like the ocean has been good to your offspring, and luckily, most are still out to sea. And a little relief so you can breath again is just around the corner at last. 

So hang in there, Klamath, you got this…

Top Ten things to do in Ashland on a fishing trip

Top 10 must do things when visiting Ashland, Oregon

Are you planning a trip to Ashland, OR? Well, if you’re not then you should start! Ashland is a little bubble of sunshine, filled with great local beer and wine, incredible food and a peaceful, fun atmosphere.

After having family come to visit over the years, we have collected our top 10 must do things when visiting Ashland.

1. Go fly fishing with Worthington Fly Fishing.

   Whether you go spey casting for steelhead on the Rogue or splashing through whitewater in a raft on the Upper Klamath, Brandon is the one to show you where the fish are hiding. Let’s go get em!

2. EAT DINNER OUT

   If you came to Ashland with the plan to eat a PB&J in your hotel room then oh boy will you be missing out! Ashland is a town that respects utilizing fresh, local ingredients. You can’t go wrong.

3. Oregon Shakespeare Festival

   Running March-October, the Tony Award Winning festival produces 11 plays annually. Find out more on their website here.

4. Take a hike up to Grizzly Peak.

   Just 12 miles east of Ashland, Grizzly Peak is 3 quick miles to the top where you are greated by an old burn scar that opens up to a bare peak allowing you to see Mt Mazama (Crater Lake) to the north and Mt Shasta to the south. Breathtaking.

5. Lithia Park

   Adjacent to the plaza, Lithia Park follows Ashland Creek from downtown to the Granite Street Reservoir Swimming Area with walking trails and benches throughout. Its the perfect way to stretch your legs after a long trip to town.

6. Caldera Brewing

   One of the best breweries in Oregon, Caldera has over 40 beers on tap and a bunch of local wines. This brewery is a sight to be seen. They say theres not a single repeated beer on the wall!

7. Go wine tasting!

   From the quaint, backyard feel of the Eliana Vineyard to the glamorous Belle Fiore chateau, Ashland has it all and within just minutes of downtown.

8. Go whitewater rafting!

   Swap your fishing rod for a paddle for a day and hit some big whitewater. From Ashland its only a short ride out to either the Rogue for a half day trip or the Klamath for a full day. Theres a few companies in the area, Indigo Creek Outfitters is the best, par none.

9. Mt. Ashland

   Whether you’re cruising the slopes in the winter or hiking the trails in the summer and fall, Mt Ashland is the perfect addition to your trip to Ashland.

10. Go shopping!

    Start in the plaza downtown and just take to the streets! (or sidewalks, that is). Downtown Ashland is home to many exquisite, unique shops from clothing to plants to pottery and art this is the place to find that something so very special.

    P.S. If your in the Plaza, give the Lithia Water a try at the center fountains. It’s a true “Ashland experience”.

Aniak River Hosted Trip 2022

How to comment on the Klamath Dam Removal Plan

The Federal Energy Regulatory Committee has issued its draft environmental impact statement which is big hurdle moving klamath river dam removal project one step closer to fruition. There is currently a comment period open until April 18th.

As a fellow river lover, and perhaps a client of our who has fished the Klamath River system and knows the benefits dam removal with bring, please take a minute to comment in support of dam removal and urge FERC to allow KRRC to move forward ASAP with the proposed action with staff recommendations.

Here’s how to submit your comment ⬇️

1. Write your comment, less the 600 words in a word processor.

2. Click on FERC’s eComment system. Fill in the simple online form with your contact information.

3. Check your inbox for an email from FERC. Click the link in that email to go back to FERC. Now you can add the project number you are commenting on.

   The Klamath Dam removal project has two numbers: P-14803-001 and P-2082-063.

   Enter these one at a time into the appropriate “search” field. Tell it to search. When it presents the project number, click it to add to your comment. Then in the comment field copy and paste your comment.

4. Hit “Submit,” and you are done!

Here is an example and comment I submitted…

To Whom it may concern,

The Klamath River needs dam removal as urgently and as expeditiously as possible. It is clear the dams create poor water quality, harmful algae blooms, lead to outbreaks of fish disease, block spawning habitat and contribute to declining anadromous fish numbers and economic opportunity for local economies.  The proposed action with staff modifications clearly show the potential for improvements across the board for this ailing river. The Klamath is by all accounts an exceptional river, but its ecologic and economic potential are simply being hamstrung by the effects of the four lower dams and their associated reservoirs.

As a fly fishing guide within, upriver and below the project reaches, I know and have come to know this river intimately, plying its waters and running my business here year round. It is as resilient and productive a river as I have ever encountered, even in it diminished state, but it is primed and ready to be set free again, unyoked to realize it full potential again. I believe, and studies show dam removal will improve the state of the river, it’s fish, people and the local economy across the board.

Also as an affected outfitter of the dam removal project and a member of the recreation stakeholder group providing input on the recreation plan, I appreciate and support the staff conclusions and recommendations in the draft EIS and urge that they be adopted, particularly the modifications to:

1. The recreation facilities plan to include the development of recreation sites and

2. Consulting with upper Klamath outfitters to schedule construction activities and access restrictions to minimize adverse affects on boating.

I fully support dam removal and license surrender, with staff recommendations and again urge expediency. With yet another summer drought ahead there is no time to waste for the Klamath, it’s fish and its people.

Brandon Worthington

Worthington Fly Fishing

---

Presentation: Guides eye view of the Upper Klamath dam removal

Brandon Worthington of Worthington fly fishing presents “Guides eye view of the Upper Klamath dam removal" to Delta Fly Fishers.

Tune in for an informative multi media presentation to get updated on the largest dam removal process in US history!